Diaries of Big Bend Backpacking

February 14, 2020

My head hurts – it’s throbbing a bit. The view is amazing though. Carrying anymore water up here would have added a significant amount of extra weight that my back could not have taken. I have three large water bottles. Had. I drank one on my way up here. Ranger Jason recommended 3 liters per person per day. I have 3 liters for myself for three days and have to conserve it because there are no natural water sources out here. The wind is cold despite the desert views and bright sun. We’re at 7,280ft elevation, on the edge of the South Rim in the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend Nation Park. More specifically, on a small unmarked trail that was recommended by Ranger Jason who was also a big help in securing us three days of primitive campsites along the trail despite our lack of reservations over President’s Day weekend.

We have this great campsite along the South Rim trail (SM2) with a bear-proof box in what I refer to as our “living room” and then our “bedroom” is several yards away and already set up with our tent. I tucked my pack into the bear box as well since we wanted to hike out until dark. We took a much lighter bag for the evening as the hike in was particularly difficult; switch backs galore! It may have been due to our afternoon start but we only saw people coming down and not a single other person climbing up the way we were. The South Rim hike is only about 12.5 miles and I think most people do it clockwise (as opposed to our counterclockwise). Well, we got quite the burn in today instead and are hoping it’s an easier ride down tomorrow. Jon is carrying the majority of weight as my herniated disc still limits me to a smaller load. For three days of food, water and gear I would say (without having weighed, it’s a very rough estimate) his bag is somewhere around 30-35 pounds and mine around 20. Today we covered around 5.5 miles, all of it uphill and without many breaks as we were in a race against the sun. The cold breeze was nice then but here on the ridge, as the sweat has begun to dry and the sun is lowering, it’s a bit too much.

Turn around from looking over the edge and there is Emory Peak in plain view. There’s a face that could potentially have great climbing but I worry the rock here is probably chossy. We are going to explore some bouldering on day three, over towards Grapevine Hills, so I pack away that idea. It feels good to spend time playing in the outdoors. I have so many more opportunities to explore and observe nature already on this long trip. It’s funny because I was worried about getting bored along our travels but I have come to realize that breadth of my interests – I always have something I have been wanting to do, or become interested in, or find myself connecting more with people and end up getting invited to explore or help with something totally different than what I expected.

The day after I stopped working, for example, I decided to walk to the Post Office for a chore. I ended up needing to then walk to a different Post Office and once that task was done, I ended up helping a man who was tediously putting stamps of W-2 envelopes for Wheatsville Food Co-Op employees. Just because I had the time and I know how great having help on a task like that is. Even when I was in Bernal, Mexico I became interested in the organic farming practices so the owner of our lodge (Chichidho) brought me to his family orchard with the volunteers on a slow day. I need to find ways of incorporating more time or slowing down mu everday life so that I can continue this trend. I feel much more connected to people and nature when I do this. I guess always thought it was the busy people who felt that way because they are always squeezing things in.

I enjoyed the hard hike earlier today. Though short and strenuous enough that my shoulders were quite strained from my pack, it feels great to be physically challenged and also have immediate rewards. Every step up is one step closer and tomorrow I will be stronger for it too. I need to continue this pattern because I don’t want to lose the strength and stamina I have gained at any point. I have come so far since my back injury that I feel as if every gain is a mountain of hard work that I don’t want to let go of and have to recover again. As I hike, I make sure that my core is engaged and supprting the load as well as my own body. I keep inhaling and exhaling with “extend, strengthen, belly in” running through my head. It’s exhausting going uphill with the heavy pack like that – my core is tired tonight. My back hurts a bit at the SI joints but luckily my shoulders hurt more from the pack. I’m considering finding a new hiking bag at REI.

It’s Valentine’s Day! We forgot about Super Bowl last week and then President’s Day this weekend but managed to last minute remember Valentine’s Day. Which means tomorrow is our dating anniversary! We bought a bar of dark chocolate to celebrate. We will have dinner here on the South Rim and watch the sunset with our dessert after.

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As gorgeous as the view from the South Rim is, the context completely changed for me when I learned that the fog I saw was actually smog. Big Bend struggles greatly with issues of reduced visibility due to air pollution. Over half of Big Bend’s visibility impairment is due to sulfates, while organic carbons, nitrates, and wind-blown particles account for the remaining components. Sources of sulfate particles include coal-fired power plants, metal smelters, refineries and other industrial facilities. Air quality in the park varies by season and the winter is actually the most clear. Research indicates that during the summer, the poorest visibility period, pollution originates from sources in the eastern United States, east Texas and northeast Mexico. Efforts between the National Park Service, Environmental Protection Agency, the state of Texas and Mexico are being made to improve visibility through the use of modern emission-control technologies on existing pollution sources, the careful placement and control of new industry and the involvement of concerned citizens. Remember that we have beautiful spaces in our country that we need to preserve. Choices that you make everyday as well as in industry make an impact on our environment. Only support industries that perform environmentally friendly practices. Live responsibly!